Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Questions to ask your dealer prior to buying any brand of boat

You asked! You have to look inside a BCB to know more.




Are they really made of the same materials. Does that other brand have an all fiberglass hull, including a molded solid transom, glass stingers and the floor molded to fit. Or is that a foam board urethane transom?

Is the jackplate a 6 bolt custom full transom length model, or is it shorter with only four bolts. And are those fine thread or coarse? Do they have aluminum backing supports at all three levels of the bolt up. Or do they just have a dress plate at the top only for looks more than anything else. Also is it an R & R with locking groove, or is it dependent on the bolts to hold it in place on the side panels.

Is the carpeting 24 ounce Syntex brand, or is it 18 ounce that costs 55% as much.

Is the carpet glue spray on light grade, or is it brushed on by hand and thicker.

Under those decks are the bases for the seat just bolted on top, or do they have a machined stem glassed into the floor and the only 7 x 7 floor base sandwiched between fiberglass.

Do they drill each gauge hole to retain dash strength, or do they panel cut large face and insert a plastic cover up dash? Do they use aluminum rings on each gauge, or are they plastic if they use them at all?

Are the screws all stainless, and are they custom #2 square drive. And do those in areas that really need a seal have a neoprene stamped washer on them. And are they machine screws with nylock nuts or tapping sheet metal into the glass, which strip. Of course this requires a wrench or socket on the install.

Are the screws or rivets under those parts all counter sunk and chamferred to prevent stress fractures, or did they just ram a screw into the fiberglass.

Is the hydraulic steering hose sheathed in a jacket to protect it for safety, or is it just run through the boat open to exposed fiberglass.

Run your hands or put your head under the decks and compare the looks of both, from the back side in the storages or sump area. Is the sump painted black to hide things instead of cleaning that area. Or is it white/offwhite and cleaned up.

Are the battery trays the same. Standard ones are, though the optional Aluminum trays are not. (eluminiuhim, that one always get us.alum, er.. elumni... oh we got it right -attempt at humor)

Are the boxes all fiberglass, glassed in as one piece, or are they rotomolded plastic screwed into a deck or an aluminum deck under the carpeting held up with twin screw threaded stems. Basically floating the deck instead of supporting it to the hull.

Is the rub rail through bolted every now and then,or is it just a screw stuck in the side of the rub rail. And is the rub rail special designed to reduce damage and with an easy replace insert, or will you have to replace it all if you damage it.

Do they spec particular fiberglass or is theirs Chinese imported at a significant savings.

Is it a GP DCPD bulk resin on the cheapest bid or a specified Ortho or Iso resin that is built to spec. And do they have a full Vinyl Ester Barrier Coat behind the gelcoat in at least 15 mills or more.

How about the seats, are they an aluminum framed, fiberglass molded back, or how are they constructed?

Is the trolling motor through bolted with a 3/8" backing plate holding it with nylocks nuts. Or is it a Wellnut that is just drilled and the rubber Wellnut holds it in place, for now. Which also leads to more stress fractures.

What brand latches are on the model in question, do some homework and compare.

Are the lids insulated on the back side, or are they painted, or maybe not at all. And do those lids seat against the seal trim (StanPro) under the lids and match up to a seal molding?

Are the Pumps all 750 GPH Mayfair cartridge style, or are they lesser and how about the bullet end connectors on those pumps that are sealed to reduce wicking of water into the electric motors. Do they replace easily if you need to, or not.

Is the trolling motor wire fine soft stranded or is it just a base wire with larger strands and thus carry less power. Either would work fine if they are 6 gauge, though one costs more. And if one is 8 gauge all is different.

Is the steel USA made on the C Channel trailer, or is it imported. And is there an adjustment on that trailer, or is it all welded to fit with no adjustment, or bolt brackets to bend.

Are the wheels 15" or are they smaller. And are they a wider aluminum wheel and what brand are the tires.

Is the harness on their trailer a less expensive imported harness, or is it a Wesbar specific harness. Same goes for the lights and hardware on the trailer.

Are the end units Vault with a 5 year seal warranty, and an optional 10 years. or are they imported Chinese "private label" brand. With what kind of seal?

Are the bunk boards double padded, glued, SS staples, and are they trimmed to fit, or are they just a 2x6 carpeted once wrapped and stapled.

All of this and more takes a little bit more time, materials and obviously a little bit more funds. And we can go on and on... Though you got the picture, the choice is now yours, though there are plenty more differences.

BCB

PS: Is a military Hummer a better off road vehicle than a Chevy Silverado?


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